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Burda Shawl Collar Coat 11/2014 # 111 in plum heathered wool

Burda Shawl Collar Coat 11/2014 # 111 in plum heathered wool

The calendar still says winter but it feels like spring around here – and yet  I have just completed one of the warmest garments I have ever sewn. This pattern grabbed me the moment I saw it despite the fact I have no need for another coat. I had this piece of wool bought at Stone Mountain about a year ago so I decided to give it a try. Note I bought the PDF pattern download from the BurdaStyle website, not the magazine pattern.

Burda Plum jacket front

Burda coat 111 shawl collar pattern
And I really wanted to make a full length coat but once I started cutting out I realized I had nowhere near enough fabric so it became a jacket not a coat. To compound that, I was this close to making a very major mistake – totally forgetting to cut out the facings. At least until I did my usual step back and do a little mental origami. I run through all the pieces on the table and “construct” the item in my head – and that is when I realized I had not planned to cut out the facings, which definitely show on this design. Whew!

Burda plum coat back

I didn’t make any changes in the pattern – actually sewed it just as is. Oops one change, it had buttonholes marked about an inch above the waist seam but I decided it was a perfect design to make the in seam buttonholes, as I did on this other Burda jacket. Can you believe I found these buttons at Joanns? I just went in there thinking I might find something so I could finish it and maybe get better ones later but these are just right.

Burda Plum coat buttons

Burda plum coat collar

Interfacing on upper and under collar, plus all the way down the front. I also catch-stitched down those seams where the collar joins the coat so it would stay flat. This fabric was so thick and springy, it really needed a lot of trimming and grading.

Burda plum coat insideBurda plum coat seam trim

It was about 70 degrees this afternoon and I ran outside and took a pretty terrible iPhone timer photo so you can see how it looks on and how the collar falls. I think this will get plenty of wear next fall but for now it being put away in the closet with the other winter stuff!  my apologies to everyone in the snow zone.
Burda coat on me

The lining is ambiance rayon.

Burda lining plum coat
One thing I might need to change is to add something onto the hem edge, I should have put a seam finish there because it is raveling a bit. As you can see, I didn’t sew the lining to the hem, kind of not the typical but I like a lining to be loose from the jacket or coat bottom, once in a while I attach it but mostly I don’t.

Burda hem plum coat

One last look at the coat with the collar up. When I first posted the coat muslin I think there was a comment that it was a Fashion coat as opposed to a Winter coat. But I think it could be a very warm coat and you could easily put another button or other closure at the top. It is a very easy pattern and perfect for a beginner.

Burda plum coat collar up

So onto the next projects which might be pants, I really want to make some crazy print pants for spring. And just ordered some pineapple print denim from Girl Charlee. Summer is coming !!!